原文出自bikeforums.net。不代表本人立场。
平时在海外论坛极少看到有关中华品牌折叠车的帖子,最近看到正巧有这么一篇。就把它转译过来。
无意引起任何争论。只是想给大家提供一个视角,看看站在西方人的视角是怎么理解和看待MADE IN CHINA的。
请尊重译者劳动,转载请注明。
Oyama FBI RR3 review
Review for Oyama FBI RR3
I wanted to try a folder in the 451 wheel size, and also I wanted to try a sideways-folder rather
than the underneath folding Bike Friday's I am used to. Apparently, 451mm is a really common size
in the far east, and I ordered the Oyama RR3.
The machine is Dahon-like, with a big sideways fold in the middle, and a sideways folding stem.
It weighs about 10kg. Brifters, derailleurs are Shimano 105, crankset was advertised as Shimano 105,
but it arrived with a generic-looking "Ounce" crankset.
The big observation first: this bike is not suitable for anyone over about maybe 165 cm tall. The reason
is there is not enough seat height for leg extension. Like all folders, this bike relies on a very long seatpost,
and this one has only about 420 mm, which isn't much. By the way, the seatpost on this bike is an oddball
30.2 mm, while the seat tube is about 30.5 mm, so the fit is pretty sloppy. This is a particularly bad thing
for a folder, because so much is asked of the seat tube for such a bike. In the interests of stiffness, a large
diameter is useful here, which is no doubt why the Dahons have 35mm. But the problem with the Oyama's
seatpost isn't the diameter, it's the length, there just isn't enough of it. And... one other important detail,
the seat tube of the RR3 is not offset with respect to the bottom bracket, unlike most other folders. This
means the seatpost cannot be retracted by telescoping down past the bottom bracket. So, even if you
had a long enough seatpost, you would not be able to do anything with it after folding, except maybe
extract it altogether and keep it with the bike. 30.9 mm is a common diameter for seatposts of course, but
alas, the RR3's is not that size. Sigh. Oyama knows how to build frames where the seat tube is offset such
that long seatposts can be retracted straight through, but for whatever reason, this was not done on the
RR3.
The other big design challenge with folders is how to connect the handlebars to the front wheel. The RR3,
showing its roots, uses the folding mast trick, so the long steerer tube and handlebar fold down alongside
the bike. Basically, for a bike of this kind, this doesn't work. The reason is, this is sold as a performance
roadbike, and as such it does not use, quite properly, a straight mountain-bike style bar, but instead goes
here for the bullhorn design. The folding mast really requires just a straight bar because if there is any
more to it, the bar just sticks out and there's nowhere to put it. You would really need to disassemble the
stem/handlebar, or at least loosen and rearrange things after a fold to have anything like a compact package.
As far as I can see, this is a fundamental problem with any bike that uses the folding mast design with
any handlebar except a straight one. Bike Fridays just put the long stempiece on a socket which is simply
extracted and stowed with the bike. This is by far the better system for handlebars of the type that road
machines tend to have.
Aside from the problem of stowing the handlebar, the basic sideways fold of the RR3 does not produce a very
compact package. The design folds wheel-to-wheel, axle-to-axle, which is in some sense appealing, but
there is a downside: this is the widest part of the undercarriage, and folding this way does not produce
much density. Fold density is made worse by the magnetic skewers the bike has which are intended to
make the folded bike more convenient. The magnets stick out, and this affects the fold. Remove the front
wheel to try to get a more compact package, and you run into the rear magnet on its extended skewer gizmo
and if you rotate the fork to get around that, you run afoul of the hinged handlebar thing. Argh.
This is sold as a performance bike, and the tires are narrow and have yellow sidewalls and look very sharp.
(I am a big salesman for high-visibility components, as about everyone who's ever been seriously hit is.)
Unfortunately, the after tire on this machine blew up soon after its initial inflation to the specs printed on
the sidewall. The plies in that section of the sidewall were not well attached to the bead and the tire let
go with a bang. The sidewall bears the name CST Dual2. The tires _look_ nice anyway. Personally, I'd
rather go with a slightly wider tire on these 451 rims -- one made by a builder with an established
reputation. By the way, the inner tubes for the front and rear tires were different. One barely had
enough valve stem to clear the rim. The valves are Schraeder, another unusual thing for a bicycle with
upmarket pretenses.
The bike is sold with very intriguing Wellgo detachable road-style cleats, again underscoring where this
bicycle is intended to be sold. The pedals are plain cool, but detachable pedals don't salvage a pretty
unimpressive fold.
I can't recommend this bicycle. The seat tube design is plain lousy. The seatpost the bike comes with is
basically a standard mountain bike type, cheaply available no doubt, but it's just too short.
The folding mast handlebar stem also doesn't work for its intended role. And the generic brand crankset may
be ok, but this is not an economy bike. The really annoying part is, the RR3 is sold as as top of the line;
some of Oyama's lesser bikes at least don't have the offset seattube problem. This bike is not cheap enough
to be an economy folder and it's totally deficient in the upmarket. No sale.
译文:
欧亚马FBI RR3点评
我想在451轮径尝试一个小折,我还想尝试一下横折车。虽然我习惯使用BF作为主
力小折。显然,在亚太地区,451mm确实是一种常见的尺寸,我订了一辆欧亚马
RR3。
此车类似大行,大梁中间有一个大的横向折叠扣,和折叠头管。
它重约10kg。手变和后拨是禧玛诺105,牙盘被标榜为禧玛诺105,但我拿到货时
看到的是一个浩盟“OUNCE”牙盘。
大体第一印象:这自行车不适合任何超过165厘米的骑手。原因是没有足够的座位
高度令腿部伸展。像所有的小折一样,这必须依赖一个很长的自行车座管,但它
只有420毫米,这有点短。顺便说一下,这是一个古怪的车座管规格——30.2毫米
,而车架立管内径约30.5毫米,所以配合是很不严谨的。真糟糕。
因为一个小折对座管刚性的要求比较高,当然是直径大些更牛逼。所以为什么大
行用35mm座管。但是问题出在欧亚马的座管不是直径,主要是它的长度,严重不
够。和…另一个重要的细节,RR3车架立管是顶住中轴的,不像大多数其他小折,
座管可以放到地。所以,即使你有足够长的座管,折叠以后坐垫也会突在外面,
只能把座管抽出来另外放。30.9毫米是通用座管规格,但是,唉,这个RR3的又不
是这个规格。杯具。欧亚马显然知道如何制造座管可以插到地的折叠车架,但无
论是什么原因,他们在RR3上就是不做。
另一个大的设计挑战是小折如何连接车把和前轮。该RR3,采用外折头管。但是,
尼玛这车用的是牛角把啊!不是平把啊!折叠以后牛角把突出来一大坨在外面有
木有?!没地方放有木有!?。你真的必须拆卸双把立/车把,或至少放松螺丝然
后和整理那一大坨东西,使他能折叠起来以后卖相好一点。
依我看,任何用折叠头管的自行车,除了平把车型,都有这个根本的问题。我的
BF就用简单的插拔式头管来解决这个问题。这是目前为止我觉得比较好的公路把
折叠解决方案。
除了车把的问题,横向折叠架构决定了RR3折后不会太紧凑。RR3被设计为折叠后
两轮完全平行,轮轴对齐,这有利于推行,但也有一个缺点:轮组是最宽的部分
,这样折叠产生了更大的厚度。而且还要加上磁吸的厚度。紧凑性就更差了。(
大行车折后两轮是不对齐的,皆源于此——译者注)磁吸是为了使折叠推行更方
便。但磁吸突出来一截,更影响了折叠厚度。如果拆下前轮磁吸试图获得更紧凑
的折叠,后轮磁吸还杵在那儿碍事呢!如果你转动前叉来避让,又碰上突出来一
大坨牛角把碍事的问题。啊!抓狂。
作为一台公路性能自行车,标配的轮胎很窄,有黄色的胎边,看起来很犀利。
(我是个外观控,其实谁不是呢。)不幸的是,当我第一次按照胎壁上指示的气
压充气时,轮胎就爆掉了。胎侧壁的帘布层没有能够很好的抓住轮圈,内胎跑了出来,所以就砰!胎边上的牌子是CST dual 2。不管怎样,这外胎看起来还是挺牛叉的。就我个人而言,我会选择稍微宽一些的外胎来配这个451的圈——找些更靠谱的大牌子。另外补充一点,该车前后轮用的内胎是不同的。有一条胎的气嘴短得几乎都快伸不出刀圈了。此车用的是美嘴内胎,对于公路跑车来说,竟然不用法嘴真是奇怪。
该车标配一对有趣的伟哥快拆公路锁踏,再次强调了此车性能车的定位。锁踏的确很酷,但仅此一卖点也挽救不了一个不靠谱的小折。
我不会推荐这辆自行车。座管的设计是非常糟糕。基本上是一个廉价山地车的货色,节省成本倒是毫无疑问,但是它实在太短。
折叠头管车把也不适合其预期的定位。无标的牙盘可能是好的,但这不是一台廉价自行车呀亲。最恼人的就是,该RR3还作为顶级产品销售;
一些欧亚马的低端自行车,至少没有座管插不到底的问题。这辆RR3自行车定价又不是低端小折,可是品质又完全不高大上。卖个球啊。(完)